Guide to bouldering on Bornholm

Bornholm offers over 200 boulder problems!

Bornholm, also known as the "rock island", is one of Denmark's most unique and spectacular places to practice bouldering and has an ever-increasing statistic of over 200 bouldering problems. 

With dramatic rock formations, scenic surroundings and well-developed climbing information, the island has become a hotspot for bouldering enthusiasts from both Denmark and abroad.

Bouldering outside on rocks is relatively simple, but also a sport where injuries occur easily. If you've never bouldered outside before, you should ally yourself with an experienced climber to avoid rookie mistakes and injuries. In addition, you should at least Go out together or let someone know where you plan to boulder and when you expect to be back.

Also remember to read Laust's general Travel guide for climbing on Bornholm.

Where can you rent crash pads on Bornholm?

If you don't have your own crash pads or don't want to carry them on the ferry, you can rent crash pads on the island. At Egeløkke Naturcamping, crash pads can be rented for just DKK 30 per day.

Contact Egeløkke at www.egelokke.dk

Packing list for bouldering on rocks

• Climbing shoes
• Lime
• Brush
• Crashpads - More than one crashpad recommended!

In addition, think about:

• A friend to spot is always a good idea!
• Bring water and food - there are no facilities in the areas.
• Weather forecast for onshore winds at coastal blocks.
• Be gentle with nature (avoid destroying lichen and plants).

Where to find bouldering on Bornholm?

Here is a list of Laust's favourite places to boulder on Bornholm. Particularly good places to visit are Ørnebjergkysten, Troldesstenen and Randkløve Skår - three unique and more hidden bouldering areas on Bornholm. Located on the north-east coast of the island, these locations are ideal for boulderers looking for beautiful surroundings and a more adventurous and undisturbed experience.

Ørnebjerg coast

Online topo: thecrag.com

The Ørnebjerg Coast offers a string of granite walls and boulders, all with stunning sea views and beautiful, undisturbed nature. The boulders are scattered along the coastline on the north-west side of Hammerknuden, and many of them require a little exploration to find.
It is by far the largest bouldering area on Bornholm and well worth a visit for both experienced boulders and beginners in the sport.

Trollstones

Online topo: thecrag.com

An almost magical area with old, crooked trees, low-hanging branches and boulders covered in moss and lichen. The bouldering is generally in the higher grades, but some easier boulders are also found.

You'll find Troldesstenen close to Stammershalle - the site has an interesting history both geologically, but also because there used to be a zoo, whose concrete walls can still be found in the forest.

Edge cleft shard

Online topo: thecrag.com

Known as one of Bornholm's best trad cracks, Randkløve also offers high-quality bouldering. The problems are generally in the high grades and the approach to the site is through hilly terrain, making it best suited to the experienced climber.
One of Bornholm's most dramatic cliff areas, where a natural canyon cuts through the coastal cliff. Climbing takes place on large boulders around the canyon

Sandkås Beach

Online topo: thecrag.com

At first glance, Sandkås looks like a popular beach, but in the northern corner you'll find a "rock cave" with a 30-degree roof over it. The place is small and only has about 5 boulder problems, but due to the great location and good climbing, it's definitely worth a visit for an afternoon session and a dip in the sea.

The paradise hills

Online topo: thecrag.com

Paradisbakkerne on the eastern side of Bornholm is one of the island's hidden bouldering paradises. With its hilly, wild nature, large boulders and deep crevice valleys, the area is ideal for both hikers and adventurous boulders. In the centre of this landscape is the Raven Valley, which offers the largest concentration of bouldering.

Many of the issues in the Paradise Hills are still under development or 'discovery' - the area is partially mapped.